Minghua: We’re here, Xiaonan. This is the Ciou Family's Henan Hall, once praised by the Ministry of Culture as a “masterpiece of Hakka architecture in Taiwan”.

Xiaonan: Minghua, the house is right next door to our school’s sports field, Zhongzheng Junior High School. Thanks for coming with me!

Minghua: I’ll introduce you to our guide, Grandpa Ciou. He knows lots of stories about the old house.

Grandpa Ciou: Welcome, kids! Look up! Every brick and tile of Ciou 's Ancient House has its own story. For example, there’s the shape of the roof, the ceramic appliqué figurines, the plaque above the main entrance, and the woodcarvings, calligraphy, and paintings inside the house. Have you ever heard of the Battle of Huoshaozhuang, also known as the Battle of the Burning Houses?

Minghua: I know that Huoshaozhuang’s official name is Changsing Village. It is located in Changjhih Township, Pingtung County. Was there ever a battle here??

Grandpa Ciou: Yes. The commander of the Liudui Hakka militia and his men fought bravely against the Japanese invaders, but the Japanese were victorious and burned the entire village down.

Xiaonan: Is that why it’s called Huoshaozhuang?”

Grandpa Ciou: That's one of the name's three possible origins. Another story is that most early immigrants to Taiwan were men. They often forgot to extinguish the fires in their cooking stoves when they went out. This resulted in a blaze that burned all the houses to the ground. Ciou’s Ancient House was built by Ciou Fengyang’s son, Ciou Yuanshou, a wealthy businessman. In 1915, he began renovating the old house, a project that took three years to complete.

Xiaonan: Wow! Three years! That’s a lot of work!

Grandpa Ciou: Originally, there were two Hakka courtyard houses here. One of which has already been demolished. Henan Hall was registered as a historical building in Pingtung County through the efforts of many individuals and later opened to the public under the name Local Art Museum. Alright, let's get started on our adventure today!

Xiaonan: Why does the plaque above the main entrance read “He-hall-nan” instead of Henan Hall?

Grandpa Ciou: “Henan Hall” is a hall name representing the family's origin. It serves to remind descendants of their ancestral roots. Placing the word 'Hall' in the center is a distinctive feature of the Liudui Hakka in southern Taiwan!

Xiaonan: Why is the character “hall” in the middle? He-hall-nan?

Grandpa Ciou: Some say it reminds descendants of the centrality of family and faith. Others say during the Hokkien-Hakka armed conflicts, the Hakka intentionally placed the character 'Hall' in the center to distinguish themselves from the Hokkien and avoid accidentally harming their own.

Minghua: Did the Ciou family’s ancestors come from Henan province in Mainland China?

Grandpa Ciou: The founding ancestor of the Ciou family is Jiang Taigong.

Minghua: The famous Jiang Taigong in history?

Grandpa Ciou: Correct! According to historical records, after Jiang Taigong helped King Wu of Zhou overthrow the Shang dynasty, the king rewarded Jiang Taigong with Yingqiu (營丘), the capital of the state of Qi. His descendants took the character “qiu” (丘) from Yingqiu as their surname, but to avoid the taboo of having the same surname as Confucius (丘), they added the “yi” radical (阝) to " qiu” (丘) forming the surname " Ciou " (邱). Ciou family descendants prospered in Henan, so Hakka people surnamed Ciou often named their houses "Henan Hall!"

Xiaonan: The family hall name truly holds great significance for a family!

Minghua: Wow! Look at the phoenix and qilin on the roof ridge. They're amazing!

Grandpa Ciou: Indeed! Most of the house’s ceramic appliqué figurines are on the roof ridge.

Xiaonan: What is “ceramic appliqué”?

Grandpa Ciou: Ceramic appliqué is a traditional technique for decorating architecture. Craftsmen first cut pieces of colored pottery into shapes, and then glue them to plaster models to create human figures, animals, flowers, and birds! Check out the left wing’s roof ridge!

Minghua: I see a white horse and a phoenix.

Grandpa Ciou: Minghua, that’s a chicken, not a phoenix! If you look carefully, you can find out three elements: a brocade chicken, a horse, and a magnolia flower.

Xiaonan: Let me guess––they all imply auspiciousness, right?

Grandpa Ciou: “Brocade” is synonymous with the word for “gold.” Combined with “horse,” it's a symbol of wealth and prestige—a golden horse. Magnolia, or “jade orchid,” is a metaphor for “Jade Hall,” a scholarly academy.

Minghua: Oh, so together the three elements signify wealth, prestige, and learning?

Grandpa Ciou: Exactly. This idiom originates from the “Golden Horse Gate” and “Jade Hall” of the Han Dynasty. Later generations referred to the Hanlin Academy, a department of high-ranking scholarly officials, as the “Jade Hall,” an allusion to important governmental positions. This fully reveals the Ciou family ancestors’ hopes for their descendants!

Grandpa Ciou: Let’s look at the vestibule’s structure! Traditional architecture features eaves that extend forward to create a porch, or veranda. The veranda needs pillars to support the weight of the extended eaves.

Minghua: Grandpa Ciou, there are short, lantern-shaped columns with beautiful carvings on the eave supports.

Grandpa Ciou: You’ve got sharp eyes! Those are called diaotong, or “hanging flowers.” They often feature themed carvings of peonies, camellias, lotus flowers, or cabbages. On the diaotong on the front of the veranda, peonies are carved on the upper left, and camellias are on the upper right. The lower part is shaped like a vase or a flower basket, and the top is carved with plum blossom patterns, symbolizing peace and prosperity.

Xiaonan: What are those wing-shaped things on the sides of the diaotong?

Grandpa Ciou: Those are gussets. They’re usually located at the intersection of beams and columns, forming a triangular component that functions to stabilize the joists and decorations. The gussets transfer the roof’s weight from the beams to the pillars. On this side of the veranda, the gussets feature a carving of a phoenix holding a peony in its beak, symbolizing supreme wealth and nobility. On the other side, there is a carving of a motif commonly used in temple decorations—the Four Recommendations, which are stories from history about four invitations extended to talented individuals. On the left, the ancient emperor Yao is recruiting Shun, and on the right King Wen is seeking Jiang Ziya’s assistance.

Minghua: Yes, I see. On the gusset on the left pillar, the person in the middle is clasping his hands in a gesture of respect, as if he is pleading for something.

Grandpa Ciou: That’s right. It’s the story of Yao and Shun. Emperor Yao is in the middle, and Shun is on the left, tilling his fields. Yao heard that Shun's filial piety moved the heavens, so he came to invite Shun to help govern the country.

Xiaonan: That’s interesting! Woodcarvings can tell stories. Let’s find some more stories.

Xiaonan: Hey, look up there! What a mighty lion!

Grandpa Ciou: This woodcarving was sculpted in the round by a master craftsman. It’s three-dimensional and can be viewed from any angle.

Xiaonan: Why carve a lion?

Minghua: The lion is the king of beasts. With a lion standing guard here, demons and monsters dare not enter!

Grandpa Ciou: That's right, you can see the lion squatting with its eyes fixed on the house’s entrance, poised to spring at any moment. It is like a patron deity guarding the house by driving away demons and warding off evil. Notice the difference between the male and female lions: the male lion's mouth is open, and there's a pearl in it, but the female lion's mouth is closed.

Minghua: The carving below the lion is magnificent.

Grandpa Ciou: The place where the lion’s claws are clutching is a butong, an architectural component that supports the horizontal eaves. This finely carved component below the arcade is called a 'butongsui.' It enhances the stability of the pillars and beams, and also serves a decorative purpose!

Xiaonan: Wow! The decorative patterns on the sides of the butongsui depict flowers and birds, but each one is a little different.

Grandpa Ciou: Yes, they are different. A phoenix and peony are on the left, and a camellia and an Amur paradise flycatcher, or “ribbon bird,” are on the right. In Chinese, the ribbon bird’s name and the word for longevity are homophones; therefore, the bird symbolizes a prayer for longevity. Camellias represent the return of spring, filled with life and vitality. Hakka decorations often combine these flowers and birds, expressing wishes for “a radiant springtime and a long life.”

Xiaonan: Grandpa Ciou, I’ve been looking at these cute decorative characters under the eaves. Who are they?

Grandpa Ciou: The decorative horizontal strip at the top of the wall, near the eaves, is called a “waterwheel block”. It’s made of cochin ware and ceramic appliqué. It tells a wonderful story. Can you guess what the story in the middle is?

Minghua: I see the characters “Tianshuiguan”. Is it referring to the story of Kongming recruiting Jiang Wei from Romance of the Three Kingdoms?

Grandpa Ciou: Exactly! I can tell you’re a fan of the novel, Minghua!

Xiaonan: Tell us the story, Grandpa Ciou. I’d like to hear it.

Grandpa Ciou: Look, the one holding the yellow fan is the renowned Zhuge Liang. He greatly admired Jiang Wei’s resourcefulness, so he tricked Jiang Wei into rebelling. In the end, Jiang Wei surrendered to Zhuge Liang and later became his successor!

Minghua: Wow! It’s as if the characters have all come to life.

Grandpa Ciou: These cochin ware scenes usually tell historical stories of loyalty, filial piety, and justice. They're meant to encourage future generations to emulate the integrity and righteousness of the ancient sages!

Grandpa Ciou: Now let’s visit the vestibule.

Xiaonan: The ceiling is so high! Impressive!

Grandpa Ciou: The vestibule is the first room that guests enter when they come into a building. It’s usually elegantly decorated. Look at the screen in the center. It was carved using a double-layered, open-sculpting technique. After the restoration, the colors are bright and eye-catching, aren't they? The descendants of the Ciou family even came back to their old home to take wedding photos here, using the screen door as a backdrop.

Minghua: The craftsmanship is so exquisite! I see a lion carrying a vase on its back.

Xiaonan: I see it too. Look, Grandpa––there’s a big elephant on the other screen!

Grandpa Ciou: That’s right, kids. The screens’ respective themes are “lion with a plum-flower vase” and “elephant with a chrysanthemum vase.” Four human figures are centered around each vase; they’re the legendary Eight Immortals, auspicious symbols of health and prosperity.

Minghua: I’m curious. Why are lions and elephants used in the carvings?

Grandpa Ciou: Because lions and elephants are mythical beasts from ancient legends. Combined with the Eight Immortals, they symbolize boundless power to protect the home and ward off evil spirits. What's more, the word “vase” has the same pronunciation as the word for peace in Chinese; therefore, the vase symbolizes peace and harmony. The chrysanthemum symbolizes autumn, and the plum flower represents spring. The combination means “peace throughout the year.”

Xiaonan: Hey, don't those two holes on the opposite wall look like two eyes?

Minghua: They’re probably for ventilation.

Grandpa Ciou: Right, Minghua. The two symmetrical ventilation windows are called “phoenix eyes.” They’re usually placed above the main door of the ancestral hall. However, the phoenix eyes in the Ciou family house are very special because they’re in the vestibule. Hakka people usually worship their ancestors in the ancestral hall, but the Ciou family is different. They wrap their ancestral tablets in red paper and store them away. The tablets are brought out and set up in the vestibule only for wedding ceremonies and sacrificial rites.

Grandpa Ciou: At the Battle of Burning Houses, Ciou Fengyang's family led the resistance. That marked the beginning of the talented family’s rise to prominence. Ciou Fengyang later relocated the clan to its present location in Tianliao, Pingtung County. His son, Ciou Yuanshou, was a successful businessman and an important figure in the area, which is why he could afford to build this beautiful home! Now let's have a look at the family treasure!

Xiaonan: Grandpa Ciou, this is just a door, isn’t it? Where’s the treasure?

Grandpa Ciou: This is not an ordinary door––it's a precious artwork! The panel below was painted on site by an artist from Guangdong province!

Xiaonan: It looks like a painting of an old man and three sheep.

Grandpa Ciou: It’s an ink wash painting depicting the story “Su Wu Herding Sheep,” an ancient tale of a loyalty.

Minghua: There’s writing in the upper left corner: ”Midsummer month in the gengwu year, by Ciou Jinluan of Chayang.

Grandpa Ciou: This dates back to about the 5th year of the Showa era, which is 1930, when the work was completed. The writing on the back says that the artist came from the town of Chayang in Dapu County, Chaozhou Prefecture. As Ciou family descendants recall, the cost of building the house then was roughly equivalent to the price of ten hectares of land.

Xiaonan: Wow, the house was a luxurious mansion in those days!

Grandpa Ciou: As it’s been preserved, Ciou’s Ancient House is a courtyard structure with two halls and two horizontal sides. Let’s check out the central atrium. We can get a clearer picture of the architectural structure from there.

Minghua: Does “two-hall” refer to the vestibule and the ancestral hall?

Grandpa Ciou: Yes. When we’re facing the same direction as the vestibule doorway, the ancestral hall is right behind us.

Minghua: What does “two horizontal sides” mean?

Grandpa Ciou: Think about it. The house’s layout is similar to the Chinese character for the number “four” (四), a rectangular shape. The outermost sections on the left and right are called “horizontal rooms.” The vestibule and the ancestral hall are connected by two walkways called “water corridors."

Xiaonan: Oh, we’re in the central atrium now. It’s the central axis of the four-sided compound.

Grandpa Ciou: You catch on quick, Xiaonan! The Hakka people's concept of ethical order is also reflected in their architecture. You can see that the ancestral hall’s ridge is definitely the highest, while the ridges of the adjacent wings gradually decrease in height.

Xiaonan: Look, what are those flower-shaped objects on the vestibule’s eaves?

Minghua: There’s one on the left and right. I’m guessing they’re for water drainage.

Grandpa Ciou: That's right, they have a cute name called “water spouts.” When it rains, the rainwater on the atrium’s eaves streams out of the water spitters and then flows from a drainage channel into the drainage system on the atrium's floor and out of the house. In the fengshui theory, water is said to gather wealth, so the craftsmen ingeniously designed the drainage channels to follow a slightly roundabout route. That way, the atrium won't accumulate water; the water flows out of the house, but the family’s wealth is retained.

Grandpa Ciou: Have you noticed the bamboo post windows on the sides of the water corridor?

Minghua and Xiaonan: Yes!

Grandpa Ciou: The decorative design above the window is a relief sculpture called a "window plaque." It’s shaped like an open book. First, its sculpted with clay, and then it’s painted. Who can name the poem the phrases on the window plaque come from? On one side, it reads "good bird on a branch"!

Minghua: I know! It’s from the poem “Li Bail Gets Drunk.” “A good bird on a branch is also a friend.”

Grandpa Ciou: And on the other side, it says, “flowers fallen on the water.”

Xiaonan: “Fallen flowers on the water create poetry.”

Grandpa Ciou: You’re both right! From the poetic imagery, you should be able to sense the artisan's intention to express a serene and contented state of mind.

Xiaonan: That’s why there’s a picture of a happy man fishing in the center of the book!

Grandpa Ciou: The cochin ware figures tell the story “Jiang Taigong Goes Fishing.”

Minghua: Look, there’s a flag and ball above the phrase “good bird.”

Xiaonan: That's right, but I can't make out what's above the words “branch tip.”

Grandpa Ciou: It’s a weapon called a halberd. A musical instrument similar to a xylophone is tied on top of it. Can you guess what the combination implies?

Minghua: That’s easy. Using a Chinese homophone, it means “praying for good fortune.”

Grandpa Ciou: Right!

Grandpa Ciou: Sometime in the middle of the Ming dynasty, people began decorating buildings with calligraphy. It not only imbues a house with an elegant cultural atmosphere but also contributes to future generations’ education. Moreover, it embodies the homeowner’s character.

Minghua: Ciou’s Ancient House is decorated with lots of calligraphy.

Grandpa Ciou: Yes, indeed. Aside from plaques and couplets, the doors and windows are also adorned with Chinese characters created with a pebble-washing technique. Most of the calligraphy is collected outside the ancestral hall. It’s magnificent!

Xiaonan: I can read that! The plaque above the hall’s lintel says “Loyal and Sincere.”

Grandpa Ciou: That’s right! Note the richness and solemnity of the regular-script calligraphy.

Xiaonan: Why is the building called "Loyal and Sincere"?

Grandpa Ciou: It’s one of the ancestral hall’s titles. It’s said that during the Song dynasty, an emperor bestowed the honorific “Loyal and Sincere" on the Ciou family ancestors for loyally and courageously defending the country. It implies "fidelity and trust." Later generations adopted the title as the hall’s name because it was an ancestral precept that they wanted their descendants to abide by, and also because it’s a symbol of glory.

Minghua: Look! Characters are carved on both sides of the ancestral hall’s entrance.

Grandpa Ciou: That’s a couplet written in seal script. The walls around the couplet and the tops of the windows are also engraved with calligraphy. You can see the great expectations the Ciou ancestors had for their descendants.

Grandpa Ciou: We now come to the ancestral hall, the most sacred place in a Hakka household. It’s where descendants come to venerate their ancestors. To highlight the halls importance, it’s usually located on the central axis and is designed to stand taller than the other buildings.

Xiaonan: Who’s the man in the painting?

Grandpa Ciou: It’s a portrait of Ciou Yuanshou. During the Japanese colonial period, he and his son Ciou Qiushun made a fortune in managing the sugar industry. In 1915, they rebuilt this old house––Ciou’s Ancient House as it is today.

Minghua: Some buildings were demolished so that Zhongzheng Junior High School could expand its campus, but we can still imagine how big the house was back then!

Xiaonan: Look up there, Minghua! There are lots of crossbeams overhead.

Grandpa Ciou: In China’s Chaozhou region, it’s customary to place an extra beam under the beam in the middle of the roof ridge; it’s called a “descendants’ beam.” This beam, along with another lower “light beam,” must extend into the adjacent room; this is called “chu ding.” It is a symbol of prosperity in wealth and descendants, as well as overall success.

Minghua: I’m guessing the Ciou family ancestors were from Chaozhou and that’s why they built the house in this style.

Grandpa Ciou: That’s correct. Do you see the “descendants’ beam” with the colorful paintings and Eight Trigrams image? The symbols protect the house from ill fortune. The first words on the ridgepole couplet on the wall align with the descendants’ beam. The lamp beam is used to hang name-and-surname lanterns and “birth-more-sons” lamps. There’s also a lamp couplet below. Ridgepole and lamp couplets are a feature of southern Taiwanese Hakka architecture.

Xiaonan: Are the black characters written on the red background the ridgepole couplet?

Grandpa Ciou: Yes. The couplets usually record family origins and migrations. The first line relates that our ancestors crossed the sea to Taiwan and endured many difficulties in order to start a family business. The second line reads, "May the soul’s earnest hope be fulfilled," a wish that descendants will have a bright future! What's special here is that Hakka people usually place their ancestral tablets in the ancestral hall, but the Ciou family conducted religious rites there.

Grandpa Ciou: The design above that window is also a window plaque relief. Let's take a look at the relief in the right wing of the ancestral hall. It’s a masterpiece!

Xiaonan: Is this carved? The colors are beautiful, and the plaque is three-dimensional.

Grandpa Ciou: It’s mostly molded clay. The colors were added later. The yellow flower in the middle is ceramic appliqué, applied piece by piece. The work is meticulous—the flower looks real!

Minghua: I can read the calligraphy above it. It says “soaring hawks and jumping fish!”

Grandpa Ciou: You’re amazing, Minghua! You can even read seal script.

Xiaonan: The window above the relief is awesome too!

Grandpa Ciou: It consists of ten open-work panels sculpted into the word shou, which means “long life.” It’s a longevity wish.

Minghua: If we look closely, we’ll find that there are different kinds of windows in Ciou’s Ancient House.The blue window below is unique too.

Grandpa Ciou: That’s a latticework window. The numbers contain a mystery. Count them!

Minghuan and Xiaonan: One, two, three…

Xiaonan: There are nine latticework windows.

Grandpa Ciou: Odd numbers represent yang, and even numbers symbolize yin. Therefore, the number of lattices in the windows of houses where people live must be odd. Make sure not to get it wrong.

Grandpa Ciou: Have you noticed that the two corridors divide the complex into three courtyards? The central courtyard, which is in front of the ancestral hall, is a solemn space. Those on the left and right are for leisure activities, and the atmosphere is more relaxed. Let’s check out the courtyard on the right.

Xiaonan: This flowerbed is exquisite, Grandpa Ciou!

Grandpa Ciou: It was a fountain originally. Ciou family descendants say the pond once had a rockery and was adorned with a shepherd boy with a fishing pole and an ox. There were fish in the pond, too. Kids would come here after school and catch fish! The fountain also embodied a fengshui concept: “Water brings wealth.”

Minghua: Look up there! There are no fish in the pond, but there are three goldfish on the roof ridge!

Grandpa Ciou: That’s the ceramic appliqué I mentioned earlier. The artisan was so skillful the fish appear to be looking at us! What auspicious connotations do goldfish bring to mind?

Xiaonan: In Chinese, “fish” and “abundance” have the same sound. It’s means, “May we always have an abundance!”

Grandpa Ciou: Great! And what about you, Minghua?

Minghua: “Gold” and “fish” sound like "gold and jade." I know: “May riches fill the home!”

Grandpa Ciou: Right! Altogether, there are nine ceramic appliqué goldfish on various roof ridges in Ciou’s Ancient House. Can you find them all?

Grandpa Ciou: That's a “gable” you see the wall's surface. See the round, colored ball on the upper part? Can you guess what it means?

Xiaonan: I know. It’s like the wall relief in the water corridor. There's a flag, a colored ball, a halberd, and a musical instrument. It’s a wish for good fortune.

Grandpa Ciou: Right, Xiaonan!

Xiaonan: But it seems like there's a fan tied underneath?

Grandpa Ciou: That’s a palm-leaf fan. It can dispel disasters and misfortune! The roof of Ciou’s Ancient House also alludes at fengshui’s “five elements”–– metal, wood, water, fire, and earth. Let’s take a look from the back!

Grandpa Ciou: From this angle, you can see the roof ridges of the ancestral hall and the hall’s wings at a glance! Can you see anything?

Minghua: The ancestral hall’s roof is the highest. The other roofs decrease in height sequentially. And the structure of each of the three ridges is different!

Grandpa Ciou: Minghua sees it! The roof ends are called "horsebacks.” In the five-elements theory, each element corresponds to a shape: gold is round, wood is straight, water is curved, fire is sharp, and earth is square.

Xiaonan: How many types of horsebacks are there at Ciou’s Ancient House?

Grandpa Ciou: Take a look. The ancestral hall’s horseback has two sharp angles, so it corresponds to fire. The horseback on the wing is very straight. It’s a wooden horseback!

Minghua: On the horizontal structure next to the wing, the horseback looks a bit curved. Is it a water-shaped horseback?

Grandpa Ciou: Right! I’ll tell you the answer: Ciou’s Ancient House has three types of horsebacks: wood, water, and fire!

Xiaonan: Wow. There are stories everywhere in the house! Every decorative detail is full of wishes and blessings.

Minghua: The calligraphy is the most impressive. Placed where everyone can see it every day, it reminds children and grandchildren of the family's history and precepts.

Grandpa Ciou: Restoration and reconstruction have given Ciou’s Ancient House a new lease on life. It's not just a historical and cultural inheritance and testimonial; it also illustrates the importance of cultural preservation. You are welcome to visit again next time and let us explore the beauty of Hakka culture and architecture together!